Istanbul 20th November
I write this as I’m sat waiting for my flight to Georgia. In
a little over a week I’ll be in oz and this ‘journey’ will be over. I feel as
though I am really going out of Europe now. In the past week, I’ve passed
through Asia, Africa, Europe and Asia again, it’s fair to say I have very
little idea about where I am at the moment.
I had 2 nights and almost 3 days in Istanbul and it has to
be said, I love this city. Maybe it’s just after the chaos of Arabian/African
Cairo but I really appreciated the 'Europeaness' of this bi-continental city. I
arrived at Ataturk airport after a very good (albeit short) flight with Turkish
airlines. Being one of the few opportunities to receive a meal and free drinks
onboard on my trip I definitely made the most of it. I even ate the smoked
salmon starter and cheese cake afters that had been included in the in-flight
meal. The salmon was bad, the cheesecake was not. I can’t help feeling that I
have been missing out on cheesecake for all these years.
Cutting out the boring stuff I got to my hostel, checked in,
and discovered what the wifi password was. I then went out exploring the city.
I had arranged to meet someone from couch surfing with whom I had been speaking
with since I had arrived in Israel. His name was Sahad and was an engineering
student at university. We walked to the golden horn and he told me a little
about the history of the city. If you’re like me and have no idea what the city
looks like I’ll try and explain. The city is located where the mouth of some
river meets the sea. There are 3 (main) ‘bits’ that stick out and are so
surrounded by water. One of the openings is called the Golden Horn and the
other in the Bosporus. It’s the Bosporus that separates Europe from Asia. Anyhow
we walked over the golden horn and he told me a story about when the Ottoman Empire
controlled Istanbul and some European nation (he was unsure which) was trying
to take control of the city (and all of its riches). The Ottomans not wanting
to give their riches to the Europeans and so instead threw all their riches
into the water. It seems a little short sited to me, surely they could have
buried them or sent them someplace else, but what can you do. As we walked
across the bridge that spans this stretch of water it was hard to miss all of
the men stood there fishing. Apparently this is a constant occurrence; I was
told that this fishing goes on for 24 hours a day 7 days a week. I can’t say
it’s a pass time I’d be interested in pursuing but each to their own. Sahad showed me Takzim Square and the Galata
tower. The tower was pretty at night but as it was after 6 the tower was closed
and we were unable to climb to the top.
Not deterred we wandered the streets and eventually decided
on Turkish pizza for tea. Turkish pizza (or big Turkish pizza as the menu
described it as) is strange. It’s almost like a very thin tortilla wraps with
toppings on the top. Then once you have it served to you, you roll up each
slice with tomatoes and lettuce and maybe some sauce then eat it like a wrap.
It works though I really enjoyed it and wished I’d have order 3 instead of two.
During our meal Sahad told me about how fast Istanbul is expanding and how, in
his opinion, there is no thought going into how the city works together. After
spending 1 hour and 30 minutes on a bus to get to the airport I’m starting to
understand what he means. City planning
and food over we decided it was time to see what the nightlife of this city was
like. Since it was a Sunday night I didn’t expect much, but there was enough
people out to create an atmosphere. We went to one bar which was a shot bar.
They had 4 pages of the menu full of different shots and one page devoted to
‘regular’ drinks. Apparently it’s a Turkish thing. We ordered 13 shots between
us and didn’t even bother to look at the ‘long drinks’ section, who am I to
argue with tradition. I have to say each shot had its own flavour and they were
all awful. I did question my new found friend, part way through our thirteen
about the reasons why we were putting ourselves through such misery, but
neither of us could find a reason more than to get our money’s worth. I don’t
think I’m cut out to be Turkish; I need my shots with a chaser.
The morning after the night before I felt awful, nothing
alcohol induced (no more alcohol passed our lips after our tray of 13 shots)
but because every hour in my hostel dorm someone made some kind of noise which
was enough to wake me up. I’ve never wanted my own room so much in my life. The
next morning presented new opportunities and I had arranged to meet Onur
another member of couch surfing who again was a student but this time in
tourism management. Onur, his friend and I visited the Blue mosque (where we
all had to take our shoes off, although they give us a little bag to carry them
in). It was an amazing site inside, the mosaic was so intricate and the design
so symmetrical you wonder how it was ever designed and built. I was also very
impressed at the standard of the carpeting; it is definitely a shining example
of why you should not wear shoes indoors. Next time I have carpet, I’m
enforcing the same rule.
After the Blue mosque we visited the Grand Palace of the
Sultan. This was in the Ottoman Empire where the Sultan would have lived. The
palace differs from European palaces as each person who lived in the palace
would have a building of their own, and gardens would separate them. It’s
amazing how weather can influence designs, even royal ones. The palace holds
some incredible jewellery which has been restored and displayed; my favourite
being a diamond pendant that had once been stolen so now had an extra barrier
in front of it. I couldn’t get any pictures as this was forbidden, and guards
were present enforcing this rule.
Other items here didn’t quite evoke the response I feel as
though they should. There was what looked like a plastic wooden stick which was
displayed as THE stick Moses used to part to Red Sea. I was also lucky enough
to see Mohamed’s beard in a bizarre container which reminded me of an old
fashioned egg timer (you know the type with sand in) and a foot print made by Abraham
in the sand which had presumably fossilised the instant he lifted his foot from
the sand (sorry, pardon my sarcasm, I’m just a little sceptical). Being rushed
through the palace as closing time was approaching us; we enjoyed the gardens
and a whistle stop tour of the other rooms. The evening was drawing nearer and
food was on our minds. Onur introduced me to a type of ‘Turkish meat’ which was
served as part of a wrap. I’d like to tell you what it was called but I have no
idea. It looked like a paste and it merged quite well with the salad also
wrapped up in my kebab. It tasted amazing, in fact it was the first real
Turkish meal I had had since my plane meal and I was very impressed (oh except
my Turkish pizza the night before). I also had a local drink which again I have
forgotten the name of, but it was a concoction of natural yoghurt, water and a
little salt. As I was drinking it I couldn’t help think it might be a good
addition to a hangover.
That was the thought I discussed with Sahad later that
evening after he had offered to show me the Bosporus and the area under the
bridge. We watched the light display that illuminated the bridge that spans the
two continents and I couldn’t help but think what a poetic this location could
be viewed as, at the edge of two worlds. Watching the ships pass and the
eventual ripple effect on the water proved quite comical. My favourite moment
being when the water hit the banks on which we were sitting and flew high into
the air, landing on a group of defiant men who clearly believed they had more
rights to be there than the water did. Anyway hunger had started on us and I
was about to try another traditional Turkish dish from one of the street
vendors which litter the side of the Bosporus. This dish was similar to an
English jacket potato with cheese except instead of leaving the cheese to melt,
it was all mashed together in the skin and then you could add your selection of
vegetables and or meats. I decided to play veggie for the night and had only
sweet corn and red cabbage but it was good.
After a restless night I was ready for bed and so we walked
back to Sultanahmet (the area of town which I was staying in) and I was
determined to get a good few hours sleep before my dorm mates woke me up again.
It shows that determination works as I slept until 7 am and didn’t wake once
during the night. I remained in bed past 7 though; there was no need to rise so
early on my holidays.
This last day seemed a little of a waste as I had a last
walk around the city and then returned to my hostel to prepare for the next
part of my trip. Boring things like book accommodation and make notes of the
addresses. I passed the time away with a few conversations. Also discovered
that Georgia has had snow recently which just happens to be my next
destination. I am looking forward to arriving there as it is totally alien to anywhere
else that I have ever been, but I wish it could be a little warmer.
Interesting Turkish Phrases i have learnt
Iyi – Good (to me it’s pronunciation is similar to ear but
I’m told otherwise
The rest of my phrases are all spent phonetically, why don’t
you try and say them ;)
Aberza – An isult we don’t have in the UK
Aberzulik – The Act an Aberza does, to make them an Aberza
Cudge – Chuck
Cher-rrref-errrr -
Cheers
Hajjr – Mate
Tashak mai yiow - another insult, it can be matched with
Aberza to make a full sentence :)
And finaly the very British phrase to know
Tesekkiur Ederum –
Thank You
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